There are more decorative pillows for sale than any one person could look at in a lifetime, and most of them are the same printed polyester square with a different picture on it. The handmade end of the market is smaller and the choices actually matter, because a needlepoint, hooked, or embroidered pillow is something you'll own for twenty years. Here are the ten things worth deciding before you buy one, from a shop that sells all three.

1. Know which of the three crafts you're looking at

Needlepoint fills a stiff canvas with wool stitches until no canvas shows: smooth, detailed, formal. Hooked pulls loops of wool through a backing so the design stands up in a textured pile: cozy, folk, lodge. Embroidered stitches a design onto the face of cotton fabric and leaves the background visible: crisp, illustrative, the one that can carry a skyline or a college gate. They cost differently, feel differently, and wear differently. If you can't tell them apart yet, read the comparison guide first. It takes five minutes and it will change what you buy.

2. Measure the furniture before you fall for a design

Our pillows run from 8 by 12 inch minis up to 20 by 20 squares, with 16 by 20 and 18 by 28 lumbar shapes in between. The scale rule is simple: a standard three-seat sofa carries 18 or 20 inch squares comfortably. An armchair wants a 16 inch square or a 12 by 12. A sectional can take 20s and a lumbar. The common mistake is buying a 12 by 12 for a deep sofa and watching it disappear into the cushions. Something like the Yorkie portrait at 12 by 12 is a chair pillow or a bed accent. The Black Airedales at 16 by 20 is a sofa pillow. Same shop, same craft, different jobs.

3. Pick the insert on purpose

The insert decides how the pillow sits. Down is soft and slouchy. It gives you the karate-chop dent designers like and it molds to whoever leans on it. Poly is firmer, holds its shape, and costs less. Most of our needlepoint pillows ship with a poly insert and offer down for about $20 more. Our rule: down on anything 18 inches or larger that lives on a sofa, poly on small accent pieces and anything in a kid's room.

4. Turn the pillow over

Anyone can make the front of a pillow look good in a photo. The back tells you how it was built. Cotton velvet or linen backing, a hidden zipper, and seams that run straight are the signs of a pillow finished by people who expected it to last. On a hooked pillow, the loops should be even in height with no bare patches of backing showing through. On needlepoint and embroidery, the stitches should be tight and uniform. Our product pages show the back for a reason.

5. Buy wool for the places people actually sit

Wool is the material for a pillow that gets used. It takes dye deeply, resists dirt on its own, and holds its color through years of sun that would fade a print in two summers. Every needlepoint and hooked pillow we carry is wool on the face. Embroidered pillows are cotton, which is lighter and sharper for fine line work, and they wear well too. They just prefer a spot where nobody naps on them.

6. Be honest about the room

A pillow in a formal living room that gets sat in twice a month can be anything. A pillow on the family-room sofa where the dog sleeps should not be a $230 petit point. Match the pillow to the room's actual life. Hooked wool is the toughest of the three for high-traffic spots because the texture hides wear. Fine needlepoint and embroidered pieces are happiest where they're looked at more than leaned on. And if a room needs something you can throw in the washing machine every week, it needs a $20 cotton cover, not a handmade pillow. We'd rather tell you that now.

7. Let the room's style pick the craft

Traditional, transitional, and grandmillennial rooms lead with needlepoint. Cabins, lake houses, beach houses, and anything rustic lead with hooked. Modern rooms and personal gifts lead with embroidered, because embroidery is what lets a pillow carry a specific place or a specific name. A Windy Hill camp pillow belongs in a lodge. A Grand Canyon embroidered pillow belongs with the person who hiked it. Neither would be wrong anywhere, but each has a home.

8. Mix the three on purpose

A matched set of pillows looks like it arrived in one box. The arrangements that look collected usually carry two of the three crafts: one smooth, detailed piece (needlepoint or embroidered) and one textured piece (hooked), with a solid to let them breathe. Vary the scale too. A 20 inch square behind a 16 inch square behind a lumbar reads as layered rather than lined up.

9. Do the twenty-year math

A $30 printed pillow looks tired in two or three years. A wool needlepoint or hooked pillow that gets vacuumed a few times a year is still on the sofa two decades later, which works out to a few dollars a year for a thing you'd actually hand down. The full breakdown, including who shouldn't buy one, is in Are Needlepoint Pillows Worth It? The short version: if you plan to keep the sofa, buy the pillow that will outlast it.

10. Read the care rules before you buy, not after

Handmade wool pillows are not machine washable. None of them. Needlepoint and embroidered pillows can be dry cleaned when they need it. Hooked pillows should never be dry cleaned or machine washed, spot cleaning only. In practice the whole routine is a seasonal vacuum, blotting spills quickly, and storing seasonal pieces rolled in a cotton bag. The care guide has all of it. If that routine sounds like more than you want, pick a different kind of pillow. If it sounds like almost nothing, which it is, you're the right buyer.

Quick answers

What size decorative pillow should I get for a sofa? 18 or 20 inch squares for a standard sofa, with a lumbar or 16 inch square layered in front. Save 12 by 12 pillows for armchairs and beds.

Down or poly insert? Down for large pillows on a sofa, because it slouches and molds to the sitter. Poly for small accents, kids' rooms, and anywhere you want the pillow to hold its shape.

Can decorative pillows be washed? Printed cotton covers, often yes. Handmade wool needlepoint and hooked pillows, never. Dry clean needlepoint and embroidered pieces when needed, spot clean hooked wool, vacuum everything once a season.

Start with the best sellers, or browse by craft: needlepoint, hand-hooked, and embroidered.

— Eric Glover